Let’s cover some of the more common active ‘Skingredients’ in Cosmeceutical/Scientific Skin Care.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)- relatively gentle chemical exfoliants, allow the dead skin cells to be removed, often found in anti-ageing products as our skin cell turnover slows with age leading to dull and lacklustre skin. AHA’s are also useful in acne, reducing pigmentation, brightening, skin toning and giving a smoother, plumper appearance. AHA’s do not penetrate deep below the skin surface due to the fact they are water soluble, they are ideal for all skin types, even sensitive skin.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)- another form of chemical exfoliant, perfect for treating blemish prone skin and blackheads, like AHA’s BHA’s also assist in the removal of dead skin cells, but whilst AHA’s are water soluble BHA’s are oil soluble this means that BHA’s can penetrate below the skins surface to clear your pores of excess sebum and dirt, reduce oiliness, whilst also reducing inflammation and fighting bacteria. An example would be salicylic acid.

Ceramides – lipids, fat molecules that provide that smooth plumpness we aim for, found in the uppermost layers of our skin, and more importantly act as a barrier protecting our skin from exposure to environmental stresses (see skin science blog). It is so important to use skin care products containing ceramides to restore your skins hydration and moisture. Suitable for all skin types.

HYALURONIC ACID (HA) – DESERVES CAPITALS & A DRUM ROLL! This one is a real breath taker; Everyone loves and talks about HA due to its incredible ability to hydrate the skin. HA can retain up to 1000 x its weight in water within the cells of skin! It absorbs and maintains moisture within our skin, keeping it soft and radiant. Our bodies naturally produce HA but as we age it greatly diminishes. Youthful glow = HA!

Niacinamide (B3 derivative) - adored mainly because of its ability to fight inflammation, can be used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It also improves skins elasticity, strengthening the outer layers and boosting levels of fatty acids in our skin therefore plumper looking more youthful appearance.

Peptides – peptides link together to form the proteins which are the building blocks of our skin. Peptides are small enough to penetrate the skin and signal to the body that it is time to produce more collagen.

Retinol (Vitamin A) – a potent derivative of Vitamin A, converted to retinoic acid - the active form of vitamin A that your skin needs once absorbed. Topical retinol boosts cell turnover promoting skin renewal leaving you with brighter and healthier skin, whilst also helping correct pigmentation. Be Warned though this fabulous product is the one most get carried away with and if you start off too strong, or use too often, it can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin and especially in the sun, so be sure to use only at night or layer with an SPF during the day, patience is key.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) - a powerful antioxidant, when applied to the skin, stimulates collagen and elastin production, leads to younger looking and firmer feeling skin. It both protects the skin from environmental aggressors and prevents damage. Used for skin brightening, hyperpigmentation, evening out skin tone, anti- ageing, reducing scars and acne without changing your normal skin pigment, helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles, gives skim luminosity whilst improving texture and tone. An essential addition to your skincare.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – a potent antioxidant, again protects the skin from environmental aggressors and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is extremely soothing, calming and is super hydrating with great wound healing properties as it strengthens the skins barrier (I have this always in my medicine cabinet and in my dental clinic as it is fabulous for oral burns, in the past when patients have ordered dodgy tooth whitening kits and present with burns this is fab and when my daughters had orthodontic treatment this was also a staple for those areas of soft skin which would be affected by the braces).

NOW THEN, THE EXTRA OHH! MAGIC INGREDIENT–

If you have ever had the good fortune to have a discussion with me it probably involved me talking about your GUT!  The Magic of topical skin care active agents are as above, and are fabulous, however, let us not forget that diet (and hydration) is key (check out my blog on antioxidants to learn about the super effects of introducing these into your diet thereby treating from the inside out through the gut as well as the outside in through the skin). Everything comes down to the gut – well the microbiome in our bodies, but if the gut is not working then the skin – our bodies largest organ will try step in!

The gut is the second brain, in fact it can act independently of our brain. We really are what we eat. A better phrase is ‘we are what we absorb’, which is a blog on its own but in a broader sense, our diet is also what we read, watch and listen to - in feeding our minds, our hearts, and our souls,

Lets not forget probiotics, now I had been banging on about these, for general health and skin health, for years to my friends and family (my niece suffers with eczema and during a particular health kick in 2011 I had a course of colonic irrigation’s, with a truly knowledgeable nurse in ‘The Bothwell Clinic’ who could discuss for hours gut health and skin health). But then just a few years ago I had a massive light-bulb moment at a Dental Conference- the speaker said, ‘the mouth is the top of the gut’.  Ridiculous I know when I am the font of all knowledge in everything and anything mouth related! I went from ‘casually dating’ probiotics to being in a ‘committed probiotic marriage’ and began passionately advising everyone to get on board with this healthy relationship (Check out my Probiotics blog for more info).

Collagen supplementation, this has been studied in greater detail and encouraging results are emerging with a large review study in 2019 showing that collagen peptides (hydrolysed collagen) have been shown to improve elasticity, hydration and wrinkling. A newer kid on the block is Bone Broth, I see this being given a mention more and more. My Granny on my mum’s side lived to 94 years of age – a fine looking woman – healthy and with full & impressive mental capacity – I think she would still be with us if she had not just become sad with the passing of too many family, friends, and colleagues. My point is – I SMILE when I read NEW articles about BONE BROTH. My Granny loved a pot of soup (11 children, 16 grandchildren and erm I need to check with my cousins how many great grandchildren she would be on now - I think we are nearing 30– I will get back to you on that one) the staple of which was bone broth.

Bone Broth is made by cooking bones from meat, poultry, or fish for an extended period. This releases minerals and other beneficial components. One of these components is collagen which is credited with beneficial effects on muscle, bone, and teeth (my granny did have full dentures and is responsible for some of my childhood trips to the dentist I must admit with her ‘here is one for one hand and one for the other’ reasoning on sweet treats and her ‘make them last you all day’ (you will have to visit my Saintly Smiles blog to learn more lessons from this). You can buy bone broth on Amazon and it has some good reviews, I have to say I prefer the home made soup version.

If you are looking to read some more about our gut and absorption and maybe dig a little deeper into boosting your nutrition - head to my ‘We are what we absorb blog’ for a bit more detailed info.