RETINOL/
RETINOIDS
Retinols and Retinoids, why the different names you may ask, well it really relates to the strength. Retinol is a type of Retinoid used in products rather than prescription medications.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are converted into retinoic acid for use in skincare. Part of the vitamin A family.
Many retinoids are applied topically, but some such as isotretinoin (Accutane) are oral medication. The most powerful retinoids are available by prescription only.
All retinoids are antioxidants. Retinol is a less intense concentration and will work more gradually.
Skin geeks have been talking about the fantastic effects of retinol as skin care powerhouses for a long time. It has smoothing, brightening, firming and spot killing benefits without hugely irritating your skin.
· Prevents wrinkles – it not only smooths your current fine lines and wrinkles, but also minimizes the new ones that form.
· Brightens dull skin – it exfoliates on a cellular level, revealing brighter, smoother, and quite literally newer skin.
· Treats acne – it not only regulates oily skin, but also keeps pores from clogging, resulting in fewer blackheads, cysts, and pimples (papules).
· Fades dark spots – over time it will even out your complexion, fading sunspots, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and dark spots.
FACTS
· Retinol slows down your body’s ageing process.
Up until your early 30’s your skin cells turn over every 28 days, creating a fresh layer of skin, but after 30 this starts to slow down, and the slowing down is what causes dry, dull and wrinkled skin.
Retinol penetrates the skin layers and speeds up cell turnover, you will not see results overnight it can take at least 3 months of consistent use to notice some reduction in fine lines, dark spots, and acne.
· Not all retinols are the same.
The umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives is Retinoids. The weakest could contain retinyl palmitate or it could contain Retinol the next strongest and more tolerable or Retinaldehyde which is even stronger or adapalene the strongest option, which is specifically formulated to treat acne. Dermatologists can prescribe even stronger retinoids.
Studies show you will reap the same long term anti-ageing effects over time with a low-strength retinoid as you would with moderate strength, it takes time and patience. Retinols can be highly irritant, the process is called retinisation, and should always be eased into. Typically, skin builds a tolerance to retinoids with continued use.
· Do’s & Do Not’s with Retinoids.
Do choose the right strength.
Do not use too much at once – ease into the use, allow your skin to adapt, 1 x week for 1 week, 2x week for 2 weeks, 3x a week for 3 weeks then alternate days – as your skin allows and guides you.
Do alternate harsh products be careful of any other exfoliants when using retinols.
Do not skip on the sunscreen, retinols can make skin extra sensitive to the sun, SPF 30 at least each morning.
· Retinoids do not have to be irritating.
Retinoids cause skin to shed cells faster than normal therefore it is likely you experience a few weeks of flakiness, dryness, irritation and/or breakouts until your skin get through the adjustment period. They are changing your skin and if you do not use them routinely your skin will go back to baseline. The slower you adjust your skin to retinol the less irritation you will encounter. Use just the tiniest amount on clean, dry skin, if using a multi-step skin care routine when you apply retinol will come down to the product and formulation you are using. It can be applied at differing stages – advice will always be given on this.
Just make sure your acne-fighting products anything like salicylic acid for example are not used on the same days/nights you use your retinol. Retinols themselves fight breakouts and oily skin so this should not be a problem to forego your usual go-to on these days.
· Retinoids not just for wrinkles.
They are considered the gold standard in wrinkle-preventing and line smoothing treatments, but they are also fabulous at turning your face into a bright healthy happy one. Retinols stimulate cell turnover, increasing collagen and elastin production but they also plump up your skin, clear and shrink pores, and fade dark spots and redness. Because they work on a cellular level, they can deeply resurface your skin, which can completely transform your complexion over time.
Give me some now I hear you say! Well hold your horses.
Why am I not just advising you all to run to the retinols?
Because this is a process, and we need to start at the beginning. Before we start bringing out the big guns, we need to get to know our skin better and start with proper cosmeceutical skin care, kickstart the basic building blocks and take it from there. We really need to be committed to our daily SPF and to a routine – there is no point in adding retinols until we are in a committed relationship with our skin.
At Ohh! We are here to make a difference, to help you do something now that you will reap the benefits from for years to come. It does start with a tailored consultation and a plan. Home care is essential for future proofing any investment you make in your skin.
Retinols are not available on my online shop at present as they do require more tailored discussion. I am here, as are the retinols, when you are ready.
